Types of money plant

The scientific name of the Chinese money plant is Pilea peperomioides. As a result, it is also known by the nickname pilea plant. Other common nicknames include “pancake plant” and “UFO plant”. The common name of this plant comes from its native habitat in the Yunnan and Sichuan provinces of China as well as its coin-shaped leaves.

Besides the pilea plant, there are many other houseplants also referred to as “money plants”. To begin with, Pachira aquatica, the money tree, is known for its braided trunk and five-leaf clusters. In addition, the golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum) and jade plant (Crassula ovata) can carry that nickname as well. Although the phrase “money plant” is a common nickname, each of these plants are different species with different needs.

If you feel confused about which type you have, take a look at the plant’s leaves. Pilea plants have circular peltate leaves. This means that the petiole, or leaf stalk, attaches to the leaf at the center. Pilea also have a central stalk that all the petioles grow from, causing the leaves to form a half orb around the stalk. The combination of these features makes pilea distinct from other common houseplants.

Pilea propagation methods

If you’ve had a pilea plant for a long time, you might notice baby plants or “pups” popping up in the pot. Pilea pups can grow from the plant’s stem or its roots. Because the plant naturally forms babies, the easiest way to propagate pilea is to separate the pups from the parent plant. If your pilea doesn’t have any babies yet, you can also propagate it via cuttings. We’ll go over all the methods here.

How to separate Chinese money plant babies

The two types of pilea pups have different names and cutting methods. First, stem pups, known as offsets or offshoots, grow directly from the plant’s main stem. You can separate offsets by trimming them with sharp pruning shears as close to the main stalk as possible. Pruning shears help make a single clean cut without causing crushing damage to the stems. Pups trimmed from offsets usually don’t have any roots yet, so after cutting you will need to root them. Click on the image or link to see the current price:

Ultra Snip 6.7 Inch Pruning Shear with Stainless Steel Blades

In comparison, the other type of pup grows from the roots of the pilea on a structure called a rhizome. Rhizome pups attach to the parent plant under the soil. In order to separate these pups, remove the plant from its pot and gently loosen the soil around the top of the plant with your fingers or a chopstick. When the rhizome is visible, you should be able to see a connection from the parent to the pup. Using your shears, cut partway along the rhizome. Choose your cutting location so that the baby plant still has some underground roots attached to it. Then, you can return the parent plant to its pot.

How to propagate Chinese money plant from stem cutting

Because pilea plants produce pups, it is not necessary to cut the parent plant to create babies; however, there are some reasons you may want to take a stem cutting. The most common reason to take a stem cutting is if your pilea plant has lost many leaves and the bottom of the stalk is bare. The plant will not grow new leaves where they fell off, so taking a top cutting can improve the appearance of your plant.

Using your pruning shears, cut the top of the stalk off the plant, including an inch or two of bare stem. The bottom of your cutting needs to be covered by the rooting medium, so leaving some bare stem will ensure that no leaves are covered. The bottom stump of the plant you can leave in the pot to grow new pups around it.

In the future, you can avoid pilea dropping leaves by improving its care inside your home. The most common issue with indoor plants is insufficient light. Providing enough light for your houseplants not only makes them grow faster, but it also helps other areas like watering. When plants photosynthesize, they take up more water from their roots, which means you can water more consistently without worrying about overwatering them. Click on the image or link to see the current price:

Dr.meter LX1330B Digital Illuminance Light Meter, 0-200,000 Measurement Range Lux Meter

Pilea light needs are measured in foot-candles, a common method for measuring light intensity. Indoor pilea need at least 200 foot candles to survive. Although pileas are a shade-loving plant, it might surprise you to know that outdoor shade is up to 2000 foot candles (compared to 10,000 foot candles of direct sun). In conclusion, pilea plants need more light than you might expect to thrive, and if you don’t have a bright enough window you can supplement your plant’s light with a grow light. Click on the image or link to see the current price:

GE Grow LED Light Bulb, For Seeds and Greens, Balanced Light Spectrum, Medium Base, PAR38 Bulb Shape (Pack of 1)

Can you propagate Chinese money plant from a single leaf?

If your pilea is unhappy and drops a leaf, you might wonder if you can propagate that leaf into a new plant. While pilea can be propagated from leaves, you need to use a healthy leaf with a piece of stem attached. Unfortunately, fallen leaves are no longer healthy and will not grow a new plant if you try to propagate them. Leaves with no stem may root but will never grow any new leaves.

Instead, collect a fresh green leaf from your pilea using a knife or sharp pruning shears. Make sure to include a slice of the stem, but don’t cut all the way through the stalk. If your pilea receives adequate lighting, the petioles may be close together on the stalk and it can be difficult to only cut one leaf. This cutting method takes the longest to grow a new plant but it uses the least amount of plant material.

Pilea rooting methods

Once you’ve cut your new plants, you can treat them to speed up the rooting process and help avoid rot. The larger the cutting, the more important it is to grow roots quickly to sustain the plant. I like to use Clonex rooting gel, which contains a hormone to promote root growth. Rooting hormone also comes in a powder format, but I prefer gel because it will stay on the cut end even under water, while the powder will wash off. Click on the image or link to see the current price:

HydroDynamics Clonex Rooting Gel, 100 ml

Each cutting just needs a tiny bit of rooting hormone. Dip the cut end into the hormone until there is a thin layer over the cut. Then you can place your cutting into the rooting medium of choice. Pups that already have roots do not need any rooting hormone, and it won’t benefit them to add it.

How to propagate Chinese money plant in soil

Soil is the best propagation medium for pups that already have roots, such as those taken from rhizomes. Rooted pups are ready to become self-sustaining plants without any other steps. Make sure to plant them in a well-draining houseplant potting mix. There are three ways to get good soil for your pilea.

Soil mixes for pilea

1. Amend regular potting mix (like Miracle-Gro) with perlite to improve drainage. Big box store potting mix, even if promoted as well draining, is often too dense for most plants when grown indoors. Adding a coarse chunky perlite in a ratio of 40% perlite to 60% percent potting soil will improve aeration of the soil and keep your plant’s roots happy. I always get this perlite since it’s the only one I’ve found that doesn’t contain a lot of dust. Click on the image or link to see the current price:

Mother Earth Perlite #3, Covers 4 cu. ft., Large and Coarse, Average Size 1/2 inch, For Hydroponic Use, Neutral pH

2. Create your own custom potting mix by combining the ingredients yourself. This gives you 100% control over your plant’s soil and can be economical if you have a lot of plants to repot.

3. Use a high quality commercial custom mix. The rePotme mixes contain similar ingredients to my custom mix. For example, in addition to containing aerating materials like perlite, the rePotme soil uses my favorite moisture-retaining ingredient: coco coir. This soil is a huge improvement over peat-based soils like Miracle-Gro because it is sustainable and doesn’t repel water when dry. Although they don’t make a mix specifically for pilea, the general houseplant mix is a good choice. Click on the image or link to see the current price:

rePotme Houseplant and Tropical Classic Potting Soil Mix – Mini Bag

Unrooted cuttings in soil

I don’t recommend putting unrooted pilea cuttings into soil. While the benefit of not having to replant them later can sound appealing, soil rooting is the riskiest method. Cuttings buried under soil are difficult to check root growth, they can become anaerobic and rot if the soil is too dense or waterlogged, and the organic material in the soil can introduce disease.

How to propagate Chinese money plant in water

Water is my rooting method of choice for unrooted pilea cuttings and pups. Water keeps your plant hydrated with consistent moisture levels, and is usually the fastest rooting method for fresh, healthy cuttings. In addition, it is easy to remove the cuttings when they have roots to plant in soil.

To propagate in water, place the pups or cuttings in a clear container filled with fresh tap water. You want at least an inch of stem to be submerged in the water, but no leaves underwater because they can rot. If the stem isn’t long enough, you can remove the bottom leaves. Replace the water every few days. The clear container will allow you to keep a close eye on your plant’s progress. Click on the image or link to see the current price:

Desktop Plant Terrarium Propagation Station- 3 Pcs Tabletop Glass Planter Water Planting Glass Vase with Lid & Wooden Stand for Growing Hydroponic Plants Home Office Table Decoration

Here are a few bonus tips to help with water rooting! One downside of water rooting is limited airflow around the roots. You can add an aquarium airstone bubbler to a larger water vessel to improve airflow and speed up the rooting process. Click on the image or link to see the current price:

Quiet Aquarium Air Pump 1.5 Watt Energy Saving Mini Oxygen Pump for 1-15 Gallon Fish Tank with Accessories White

Furthermore, once roots have started to grow you can add a weak fertilizer. I like liquidirt because it provides micronutrients that plants need but is gentle enough not to burn them or cause algae to grow in the water. Click on the image or link to see the current price:

Liqui-Dirt Nano Powder All-Purpose Organic Complete Plant Food for Indoor or Outdoor Use (Makes over 50 gallons) 18 Balanced Super Foods -Balanced Blend of Vitamins Minerals Micro-Fungi and Bio-Organisms

When your cuttings or pups have roots that are a few inches long, they are ready to be planted in soil and you are ready to enjoy your new baby Chinese money plants!

Want to use what we use to propagate plants? Check out our recommended best propagation supplies on Amazon!

The post How to Propagate Chinese Money Plant (Pilea Peperomioides) | Easy! appeared first on Plant Propagation Guide.

Identifying pothos

The name pothos is used for lots of different plants, which can get super confusing! First, we’ll break down all the varieties so you can tell what plant you are propagating.

Epipremnum aureum, the golden pothos, is the most common variety. This houseplant also goes by the names devil’s ivy and money plant. While the pothos you see at nurseries typically grow leaves smaller than your hand, they can get much larger with the right conditions. In tropical locations like Hawaii, golden pothos climb dozens of feet up tree trunks and achieve a mature form with leaf splits called “fenestrations” just like monstera leaves.

In addition, golden pothos are not always gold and green, and come in a wide variety of color patterns. N’joy, jade, manjula, global green, neon, marble queen, snow queen, emerald, glacier, jessenia, and pearls & jade are all variations of Epipremnum aureum. In contrast, silver pothos and satin pothos, so-called because of the silvery sheen of their leaves, are actually the plant scindapsus pictus.

Likewise, epipremnum pinnatum is another plant in the same epipremnum genus that is sometimes called pothos. This plant has longer and thinner leaves that get fenestrations more easily, earning it the nickname “dragon tail.” The popular but harder to find cebu blue and baltic blue pothos are both epipremnum pinnatum.

Pothos vs Philodendrons

Lastly, pothos look very similar to another common plant, the heartleaf philodendron (Philodendron hederaceum). Like the pothos, heartleaf philodendrons come in lots of patterns and varieties like lemon lime, brazil, and micans. You can tell these plants apart by a few small differences. For example, pothos have thicker leaves with a round base while heartleaf philodendron leaves are thinner and heart-shaped. Furthermore, pothos leaves unfurl from the previous leaf, while philodendron leaves grow from a sheath called a cataphyll that dries up and falls off once the leaf has opened.

Fortunately, all of these plants have the same growth habits, creating long trailing or climbing vines. This means that the way you propagate them is identical!

How to cut pothos for propagation

In this section we will plan the best place to cut your pothos, before finally making the cut.

Parts of a pothos vine

The most important things to remember when propagating pothos is that you always need a node. A cutting with just a leaf will not grow a new plant. To be sure your cutting has a node, let’s go through the parts of a pothos in detail.

To begin, nodes are the ridges around the stem of the pothos. Each petiole (the long green stalk that holds the leaf) grows out of a node. As a general rule, there will be one node for every leaf, but there can be a few more nodes than leaves if the plant lost a leaf, or a new stem grew from a previous cut.

Nodes are the location in the plant where new vines can start. Right above each node is an axillary bud, the dormant shoot of a new stem, waiting to be awakened by a cut. The axillary bud on a pothos is usually not visible until it is activated.

The internode is the portion of the main vine between nodes. In order to get a node in your cutting, you need to cut the plant on the main stem on the internode, not on the petiole or leaf. If you cut just a leaf, it will not contain a node.

Pothos aerial roots

You also might see some aerial roots growing from your pothos stem. Aerial roots start out as a white nub breaking through the stem. Usually they will stay as a nub and develop a brown or bark-like covering over time, especially if they are on an older part of the plant.

Pothos use aerial roots to cling onto trees and climb in the wild. If the aerial roots contact a growing medium, like a climbing pole or the soil, they can start to grow into normal roots. Additionally, if you have your pothos plant in high humidity (60% or higher), the aerial roots are more likely to continue to grow in the air instead of stopping at a nub.

When picking a place to take a cutting from your pothos, look for a vine with aerial roots as your first choice. Cuttings with aerial roots will root faster because the aerial roots can extend into normal roots. If your pothos doesn’t have any, that is ok too! The roots will grow out of the stem near the node.

Where to cut a pothos

Depending on the size of your pothos plant, you may have one or many vines. You can trim the tips or cut them back all the way, but leave at least one node to regrow from. In total, plan to leave at least 2/3 of the leaves on the parent plant.

• Top Cutting – A top cutting is the most basic, and requires just one snip. By separating the top of the stem from the bottom, cutting on the internode, you remove the plant’s terminal bud, the growth point at the top of the stem. Top cuttings are the best type of cutting because they start growing again the fastest and the new leaves will not lose much maturity.
• Mid Cutting – Once you remove the top cutting, you can separate additional cuttings from the middle of the stem. Each middle cut requires two snips, one above and one below. A mid cutting will start growing a new stem from its node’s axillary bud, so it will be starting over in terms of leaf size and maturity.

Each cutting only needs to contain one node. For this reason, you can split a long cutting into many pieces. Because pothos root so easily, there isn’t much benefit to leaving more, unless you want your baby plant to start with a longer vine.

How to take cuttings from a mature pothos

In case you have a plant with mature leaves and fenestrations, here are a few extra tips. Remember, only a top cutting, aka the tip of the vine, because it will maintain the leaf size. Any mid cuttings or bottom cuttings (vines left on the parent plant) will grow smaller leaves from their newly activated buds. If you’re buying, don’t spend extra money on a cutting from a mature pothos plant unless 1. it is a top cutting and 2. you will be able to provide similar growing conditions to maintain leaf size.

Can you propagate pothos without a node?

You cannot propagate a pothos plant without a node. If you have a cutting with no node, it may survive for a while but will never grow a new plant.

Can you propagate pothos without leaves?

Yes, a cutting that contains a node but without any leaves is a stem cutting – also known as a node or “wet stick.” In fact, propagating a pothos without a leaf is definitely possible. It just takes longer to grow roots and new leaves with no existing leaves to perform photosynthesis.

Making the cut

At this point, we have plan and are ready to cut! Identify the location of the node, and make sure it is included in the cutting. Make sure to leave as much room as possible on either side of the node. This provides space to spare if you experience rot.

Using a pair of clean, sharp shears, separate your cutting from the vine. Cut the stem cleanly, without causing any crushing damage, to keep the tissue healthy. I recommend these shears. Click on the image or link to see the current price:

Ultra Snip 6.7 Inch Pruning Shear with Stainless Steel Blades

Treating the cut

Normally, at this stage in propagation we would add rooting hormone to the cut ends. For most plants, this decreases rooting time, but pothos naturally root quickly without rooting hormone. In fact, the University of Florida Pothos Production Guide states that indolebutyric acid, the active ingredient in rooting hormone gel, does not benefit pothos rooting time.

Once you are done cutting, leave the cuttings out a few hours until the cut ends are no longer wet. They will naturally form a callous to protect the plant.

How to root pothos cuttings

Now that you have your cuttings, they need to grow roots to survive. Any rooting method will work for pothos cuttings, but each have pros and cons. My preferred method for pothos is water rooting, for its simplicity. This method is most effective for fresh, healthy cuttings. For all methods, make sure the node and aerial root are kept moist.

Consider the things your cutting needs to grow roots and avoid rot:

Moisture keeps your plant alive without roots and encourages root growth. Keep aerial roots consistently wet and covered by the propagation medium. High humidity around the plant will limit water loss. Airflow is important in a high humidity environment to maintain oxygen around roots and prevent root rot.

To avoid stem rot, keep the cut ends of the stem as dry as possible. The best way to do this is by suspending them out of the propagating medium. It can be impractical to keep both ends out, but if you use a container that is taller than it is wide you can usually keep at least one end out.

How long does it take to propagate pothos?

In optimal conditions, pothos cuttings root in 3-4 weeks, and new buds can start to grow in 1-2 weeks. The typical household conditions are colder and darker than tropical plants prefer, so it may take longer. Keep reading to learn how to improve propagation conditions in your home.

How to propagate pothos fast – lighting

The most important factor in plant growth, whether cuttings or established plants, is light. While pothos plants can survive in most household lighting conditions, they need more light to thrive.

For example, a common measure of light intensity is foot-candles. A few feet away from a window light levels are around a few hundred foot candles. 125 foot candles is enough for pothos to stay alive, but you might be surprised to learn that the “bright indirect” light pothos need for best growth is much more than this.

In comparison, direct outdoor sunlight on a cloudless day can be up to 10,000 foot candles! Even in full shade, outdoor plants receive 1000-2000 foot candles.

Commercial greenhouses keep their pothos plants in sunlight under shade cloths or very bright lights to achieve 3000-5000 foot candles. These levels are the best “bright indirect” light conditions for maximum pothos growth and rooting speed.

If you want to take the guesswork out of lighting once and for all, the best thing you can do is buy a light meter. Click on the image or link to see the current price:

Dr.meter LX1330B Digital Illuminance Light Meter, 0-200,000 Measurement Range Lux Meter

It is possible to achieve greenhouse light intensity indoors by using a dedicated grow light, or very bright window. I love using GE brand grow light bulbs because my north-facing Seattle windows just aren’t bright enough. These bulbs fit into normal sockets but can help you achieve light levels in the thousands of foot candles. Even better, they are a beautiful daylight white color that looks great in your home. I always buy these on Amazon instead of a big box store because the price is usually better. Click on the image or link to see the current price:

GE Grow LED Light Bulb, For Seeds and Greens, Balanced Light Spectrum, Medium Base, PAR38 Bulb Shape (Pack of 1)

When increasing light levels, make sure to increase the intensity gradually to avoid leaf burn. You can do this by moving the plant closer to the light source over time.

How to propagate pothos fast – fertilizer

Until your cutting grows roots, you don’t need to add nutrients to the water you use to moisten your propagation medium, because it can’t absorb them. Once roots begin to grow, you can add nutrients to help it grow faster. I use a few drops of Liqui-Dirt added to the water. This weak fertilizer can boost baby plants without risk of overfertilizing. Click on the image or link to see the current price:

Liqui-Dirt Nano Powder All-Purpose Organic Complete Plant Food for Indoor or Outdoor Use (Makes over 50 gallons) 18 Balanced Super Foods -Balanced Blend of Vitamins Minerals Micro-Fungi and Bio-Organisms

Growing pothos cuttings in winter

The ideal growing temperature for pothos is 70 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. If the temperature is too high or too low they will root and send out new buds much more slowly. In an indoor environment, you can control the temperature of your cuttings so that they are not affected by changing seasons. The easiest way to maintain tropical temperatures for your cuttings is a heating mat. Click on the image or link for the current price:

10″x20.75″ Seedling Heat Mat and Thermostat Controller 68-108°F Digital Thermostat Controller IP68 Waterproof (Heated mat+Thermostat Controller)

How to propagate pothos in water

Water is the simplest way of propagating most plants! Fill a glass or jar with water, place the cutting in with the water level above the node, and replace the water every few days. A fish tank air stone can be added to increase water oxygen levels. I use this method for healthy, low risk cuttings that I am confident will root long before they rot in a lower airflow environment — and freshly cut pothos are a perfect example. We recommend this fish air pump. Click on the image or link for the current price:

Quiet Aquarium Air Pump 1.5 Watt Energy Saving Mini Oxygen Pump for 1-15 Gallon Fish Tank with Accessories White

Pros: Can use a clear container to see roots form and check cutting for rot. Keeps your cutting from becoming dehydrated. Very easy to maintain consistent moisture around roots. No organic matter in medium to introduce disease. No damage to roots when removing from water. Roots grow quickly.

Cons: No airflow around roots. Only source of oxygen is what is dissolved in water. More difficult to transition roots grown in water to soil. Hard to keep stem out of water.

How to propagate pothos in soil

Many commercial nurseries that need to produce new plants efficiently just plant their pothos cuttings straight into soil. This method can work, especially with a fresh, healthy cutting, but it has the most downsides out of all the methods. For a home propagator, it is very difficult to achieve 100% success propagating in soil. I recommend this soil for pothos. Click on the image or link to check the current price:

Pothos Imperial Houseplant Potting Soil Mix by rePotme – Mini Bag (2 Quarts)

Pros: No transplanting required. Plant can benefit from nutrients in soil.

Cons: Hard to maintain consistent moisture. Can’t check on roots forming or see rot. Soil can become anaerobic if overwatered. Organic medium can introduce fungus or disease.

How to propagate pothos in perlite or LECA

Perlite has very similar benefits to water, with the addition of greater airflow. Perlite is absorbent and porous, so it will wick moisture up to areas of the container that are not underwater. Keep the container filled with a small reservoir of water below the level of the stem, and cover the top to hold in humidify around the roots.

I use this method for high risk, dehydrated cuttings. Since it takes more work than water, I only use it for rarer types of pothos that I only have a few cuttings of.

You can use any chunky, inorganic material for this method, like pumice or LECA (lightweight expanded clay aggregate), if you don’t have perlite. Perlite is my preference because it is so lightweight; it is easy to pull out the cutting to check on it without disturbing it too much. Heavier mediums will help the cutting stand up better, however. I recommend this LECA. Click on the image or link to check the current price:

Mother Earth Hydroton Original Clay Pebbles – 10 Liter, Lightweight Expanded Clay Aggregate

Make sure you pick a course perlite without fertilizer or dust. The ones available at nurseries and hardware stores usually have too many small grains and lots of dust that needs to be rinsed out. I recommend this perlite. Click on the image or link to check the current price:

Mother Earth Perlite #3, Covers 4 cu. ft., Large and Coarse, Average Size 1/2 inch, For Hydroponic Use, Neutral pH

Pros: Easy to maintain consistent moisture around roots. No organic matter in medium to introduce fungus or disease. Minimal damage to roots when removing from perlite. Allows airflow to roots.

Cons: Can’t check on roots forming or see rot.

How to propagate pothos in sphagnum moss

You can also propagate pothos in sphagnum moss in place of soil. Moist moss holds a lot of water, which is great for maintaining humidity around roots while still allowing airflow. This method can yield great results, but is difficult to execute correctly. People often have issues caused by moss that is too wet or too dry. I recommend this sphagnum moss. Click on the image or link to check the current price:

besgrow New Zealand Sphagnum Moss (100 Grams)

To make moisture retention easier when propagating lots of pothos cuttings at once, I use moss in a propagation box aka “prop box.” This is a container that seals to keep in humidity. First, lay the damp but not wet moss across the bottom of the container at least 1 inch deep. Next, place the cuttings on top of the moss. I put pieces of moss over any existing aerial roots to guide them into the medium, but leave the stem ends free. Last, place the lid on the container.

If your moss is moist enough, you should see condensation form on the lid. This means that your humidity is 100% and you should have to water the box only rarely. Make sure to open it once in a while to allow fresh air in. Choose a container with a clear lid so that your grow light can shine through. Click on the image or link to check the current price for this propagation dome:

Propagator with Humidity Vents Domes,Heavy Duty Growing Tray Mini Greenhouse for Seedlings, Clones

Pros: Maintains high moisture and humidity without liquid water. Lightweight and easy to shape around roots. Easier to keep stem out of medium. Roots transition more easily to soil.

Cons: Hard to maintain consistent moisture. Can’t check on roots forming or see rot. Damaging and time consuming to remove moss from roots. Organic medium can introduce fungus or disease.

Air layering

Air layering means growing out the aerial roots of your plant into soil roots before cutting it. This method is usually performed with bundles of sphagnum moss wrapped around the aerial roots. You can use plastic wrap, ziplock bags, or other containers to keep the moss moist. You can also air layer by guiding aerial roots into moss on a pole, or placing aerial roots into an additional container of soil or water.

Air layering is labor-intensive, but it is the safest method of propagation. For this reason, it is the best choice for rare or valuable plants. An air-layered cutting can grow enough roots to sustain itself before it is even removed from the parent plant.

How to plant pothos cuttings

Keep a close eye on your cuttings when you propagate pothos, because their roots grow quickly! Pothos cuttings are ready to plant when they have a main root a few inches long with smaller roots branching off it. I recommend planting many pothos cuttings together in a pot, at least 5 for a small plant, so that it will create a full looking plant as fast as possible. There are two key things you need to decide on when planting: the pot type and soil type.

Best pot for planting pothos cuttings

When selecting a pot, look for one that is just wide enough to fit the roots of the cuttings. If it is too wide the cuttings will not be able to use the moisture fast enough and may get root rot. I always choose clear pots with drainage holes for my pothos. The clear plastic sides let you keep an eye on root growth so you never have to guess when to repot. For aesthetic purposes, place the clear pot inside a decorative cache pot. That way you can have a draining pot on the inside that looks great on the outside. Click on the image or link to check the price on these clear pots:

4″ Rigid Clear Orchid Pots

Best soil for planting pothos cuttings

The best soil to use for pothos is one with aerating materials added to create a quick draining mix that holds moisture while giving airflow to the roots. You can create your own mix from scratch by buying all the ingredients separately, amend big box store potting soil to improve it, or buy a custom potting mix. I prefer to make my own or use a custom mix because common potting soil brands like Miracle-Gro use peat-based soil which 1. is not sustainable and 2. becomes hydrophobic (water repelling) when it gets too dry. Obviously, the last thing you want in a soil is for it to repel water when your plant needs it the most! This rePotme soil mix is an easy solution that uses coco coir, one of my favorite soil ingredients, instead of peat and is similar to the custom mix I make at home. Click on the image or link for the current price:

Pothos Imperial Houseplant Potting Soil Mix by rePotme – Mini Bag (2 Quarts)

Fill the bottom third of your clear pot with soil mix, place the cuttings in, and fill the rest of the pot with soil so that the nodes are above the surface (or as close to it as possible). This will allow the new buds to grow safely outside the soil. Make sure to water the plant until water drains out the bottom, and don’t let the soil dry out more than just the surface for at least two weeks until your new pothos is established in the soil. An easy sign of an established plant is white root growth visible through a clear-sided pot.

Want to propagate your plants using the same propagation supplies we use? Check out our recommendations!

The post How to Propagate Pothos: 4 Easy Ways & Bonus Tips! appeared first on Plant Propagation Guide.

If you want to learn more about how to propagate plants (often misspelled as propogate), we recommend you follow one of our guides!

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Plant Propagation Supplies

When propagating plants, it is important to get a clean cut and have a container for your new plant. From there, plant parents should focus their attention on water levels, light, temperature, humidity, and fertilizer. To accelerate root growth, consider adding rooting hormone to your propagation supplies. Let’s get to cloning!

Best Grow Lights for Plant Propagation and Everyday Use

My search for the perfect grow light ended when I tried the GE 32W Balanced Spectrum light bulb. This is what I use for all of my variegated Monstera Albo cuttings, and they LOVE IT. It hard to find a spot in my home bright enough to keep my plants growing when it gets dark and cloudy. With these lights, I get a new leaves every month – even in the dead of winter!

GE Grow LED Light Bulb, For Seeds and Greens, Balanced Light Spectrum, Medium Base, PAR38 Bulb Shape (Pack of 1)

These GE Grow Light Bulbs frequently go on sale on Amazon, making them significantly less expensive than they would be at your nearby hardware store. Click on the above image or link for the current price.

Best Light Meter for Plant Propagation

If you want to take the guesswork out of lighting once and for all, the best thing you can do is buy a light meter. This will tell you the exact light measurement in foot candles. You can use this information to perfect the placement of every plant and grow light in your home. This the one I use. It is a great value, easy to use, and works perfectly. Click on the image or link to check the current price:

Dr.meter LX1330B Digital Illuminance Light Meter, 0-200,000 Measurement Range Lux Meter

Best Rooting Hormone Gel for Plant Propagation

Plants naturally produce this hormone, which signals to the unrooted cutting that it should grow roots. By adding rooting hormone gel, you can encourage your plants to grow roots faster when propagating.

Rooting hormone comes in powder and gel format. I use Clonex gel because it works in both wet and dry mediums. Powder is best for dry mediums (like soil and not water) because it will wash off in a liquid. Click on the image or link for the current price.

HydroDynamics Clonex Rooting Gel, 100 ml

Best Velcro Garden Ties for Plant Propagation

I prefer to use velcro garden ties when supporting my plant cuttings. The green color blends into the plant, and they are soft and wide to avoid damaging the stem. You can cut them to any length, put them on using one hand, and undo or reuse at any time. Check Amazon for the current price by clicking on the image or link.

VELCRO Brand VEL-30071-USA ONE-WRAP Garden Ties | Plant Supports for Effective Growing | Strong Grips are Reusable and Adjustable | Cut-to-Length, 50 ft x 1/2 in, Green-Recycled Plastic

Best Leca for Plant Propagation

Lightweight expanded clay aggregate (LECA) are porous clay balls. They are commonly used as solid inorganic material, which is added to water for semi-hydoponics.

The solid material provides structure for the roots to grow, and allows more airflow. The LECA balls wick water upward, allowing roots to grow in the air, above the level of pooled water. Click the image or link to check the current price on Amazon.

Mother Earth Hydroton Original Clay Pebbles – 10 Liter, Lightweight Expanded Clay Aggregate

Best Perlite for Plant Propagation

Perlite has very similar benefits to water, with the addition of greater airflow. Perlite is absorbent and porous, so it will wick moisture up to areas of the container that are not underwater. Keep the container filled with a small reservoir of water below the level of the stem, and cover the top to hold in humidity around the roots.

Perlite is so lightweight; it is easy to pull out the cutting to check on it without disturbing it too much. Heavier mediums will help the cutting stand up better, however.

Make sure you pick a course perlite (#3 or bigger to minimize dust) without fertilizer. I recommend this perlite. Click the image or link to check the current price on Amazon.

Mother Earth Perlite #3, Covers 4 cu. ft., Large and Coarse, Average Size 1/2 inch, For Hydroponic Use, Neutral pH

Best Sphagnum Moss for Plant Propagation and Air Layering

Moist moss holds a lot of water, which is great for maintaining humidity around roots while still allowing airflow. A cover, like cling wrap, can be used to hold humidity in the container.

This method can yield great results, but is difficult to execute correctly. People often have issues caused by moss that is too wet or too dry. Click on the image or link for the current price:

besgrow New Zealand Sphagnum Moss (100 Grams)

Best Fertilizer for Plant Propagation and Everyday Use

This fertilizer makes 45 gallons and can be used on most indoor plants. I use a few drops of Liqui-Dirt added to the water for my propagated plants. The packet is super concentrated and lasts a long time. Click on the image or link for the current price.

Liqui-Dirt Nano Powder All-Purpose Organic Complete Plant Food for Indoor or Outdoor Use (Makes over 50 gallons) 18 Balanced Super Foods -Balanced Blend of Vitamins Minerals Micro-Fungi and Bio-Organisms

Best Pruning Shears for Propagating Plant Cuttings

To create plant cuttings, I prefer sharp pruning shears as they make the cleanest cut. Your goal when cutting should be a smooth chop without crushing the tissue around the cut. Crushed areas often die, so a sharp tool will help you only need to cut once. Click on the image or link for the current price.

Ultra Snip 6.7 Inch Pruning Shear with Stainless Steel Blades

Best Clear Pots with Humidity Dome for Plant Propagation

Only have a handful plants you want to propagate? Want to keep cuttings separate? These clear propagation pots with a dome are perfect! Just like a larger propagation tray, these pots help you maintain consistent humidity, temperature, and light levels. Click on the image or link for the current price:

4″ Clear Plant Nursery Pots with Humidity Dome, 10PCS Plastic Gardening Pot Plant Container, Seed Starting Pot with Drain Holes for Seedlings/Vegetables/Succulents/Cuttings

Best Propagation Clone Tray & Propagator Dome

Maintaining consistent humidity, temperature, and light levels are key to success plant propagation. Look no further for the perfect cutting propagator! A propagation dome is a clear enclosure that keeps moisture in and allows your plants to absorb light. Click on the image or link for the current price.

Propagator with Humidity Vents Domes,Heavy Duty Growing Tray Mini Greenhouse for Seedlings, Clones

Best Temperature and Humidity Sensor for Plant Propagation

I recommend this hygrometer (humidity sensor) & thermometer that I use for my plants. I love the fact that it displays the highs and lows (temperature and relative humidity) of the last 24 hours, so that when I come home from work I can see what my plants experienced while I was gone! Click on the image or link for the current price.

Hygrometer Indoor Thermometer, Hygrometer Humidity Gauge Room Thermometer Digital Hygrometer Indoor Temperature Humidity Monitor High-Precision Digital Sensor (HD Large Display)

Best Mycorrhizal Fungi for Growing Roots in Soil

When you transfer your propagated plant to soil, you will likely be focused on developing a healthy system of roots. Mycorrhizal fungi has a beneficial, symbiotic relationship with plant roots to improve the uptake of micro and macro nutrients. I recommend this formula – click on the image or link for the current price:

Mycorrhizal Inoculant by DYNOMYCO™ – High Performing Strains – Concentrated Formula – Improves Nutrient Uptake – Increases Plant Yields Enhances Resilience to Stress Saves Fertilizer (100 g / 3.5 Oz)

Best Plant Heat Pad and Mat for Propagating Plants

Heat pads are used with a propagation tray or propagator dome to maintain heated temperature levels. Choose one with a thermostat, like the one I recommend below. Click the image or link to check the current price:

10″x20.75″ Seedling Heat Mat and Thermostat Controller 68-108°F Digital Thermostat Controller IP68 Waterproof (Heated mat+Thermostat Controller)

Best Plant Propagation Station and Test Tube Planter

Using test tubes allows a plant to grow its initial root system. The vertical walls (i.e. no neck) of the tube ensures that removing the plant and its new roots is easy! If you plan on growing a very large root system, stop using the lid as the root system progresses. Plus, the clear tubes allow you to monitor progress. Click on the image or link for the current price:

Desktop Plant Terrarium Propagation Station- 3 Pcs Tabletop Glass Planter Water Planting Glass Vase with Lid & Wooden Stand for Growing Hydroponic Plants Home Office Table Decoration

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