Best indoor plant cuttings to grow and propagate in water

The best plants to grow from cuttings in water are those that naturally develop roots quickly. Water propagation requires some part of the plant to be submerged. For this reason, slow rooting plants, like snake plants, can get mushy if they are underwater for too long. A fast rooting time means that the stem doesn’t need to remain underwater for too long.

Easy plant cuttings to propagate in water

The top plants to grow from cuttings in water are also some of the most popular varieties! These plants include pothos, tradescantia, begonias, and philodendrons. For many of these varieties we already have plant-specific propagation guides — follow the links to learn more!

• Propagating pothos in water: this guide covers golden pothos propagation, with instructions that will work for any of the many pothos varieties
• Propagating tradescantia in water: tradescantia is the fastest rooting common houseplant and a great option for getting started with water propagation
• Begonia propagation in water: cane begonias grow rapidly, so cutting them back and propagating the stems can keep your plant a manageable size as well as let you create new babies
• Propagating philodendron in water: there are a huge variety of philodendron species, such as the heart leaf philodendron, that propagate quickly and easily in water

List of plants that grow from cuttings in water

Other types of plants can also be propagated in water!

• Snake plant propagation in water: snake plant propagation is different than vining plants. Check out this guide for advice for cuttings and division.
• Propagating succulents in water: you can propagate succulents from stems and leaves! Make sure to let them callous over before placing in water.
• Propagating monstera in water: propagating monstera in water is easiest with cuttings that have aerial roots. An aerial root submerged in water will grow into a regular root.
• Propagate spider plant in water: spider plants often grow babies dangling off the parent plant. Once you separate them you can root the babies in water.
• Propagating peperomia in water: you can propagate peperomia by both stem and leaf cuttings! The new plants send out new shoots with tiny leaves.

Why do plant cuttings grow roots in water?

Whenever you take a cutting from your plant, the piece you remove can no longer sustain itself. While disconnected from the parent plant, the cutting has no way to get water or nutrients. As a result, it will put all of its energy into root growth. The cutting will continue attempting to grow roots until it can sustain itself again, or dies. Providing water as a propagation medium for your cutting will help it successfully grow roots.

Rooting cuttings in water

When propagating plants in water, you provide them the easiest possible access to what they need. Not only do they receive perfectly uniform access to moisture, but the cuttings also get the nutrients added to the water.

Propagating plants from cuttings in water

Once you have your cuttings, find a container large enough to submerge the nodes or cut area wherever the roots will grow from for your plant. (Check out the plant-specific propagation guides for instructions on how to cut different types of plants.)

Water propagation setup

Clear containers, such as glass or reused plastic takeout cups, are best. Through the transparent sides, you will be able to closely monitor the growth of your cuttings. In addition, make sure that mouth of the container is not narrower than the rest. Vase-shaped containers are not ideal because when roots grow, you can have a hard time getting the plant back out through the narrow neck. Click on the image or link to check the current price:

Desktop Plant Terrarium Propagation Station- 3 Pcs Tabletop Glass Planter Water Planting Glass Vase with Lid & Wooden Stand for Growing Hydroponic Plants Home Office Table Decoration

Next, remove any leaves that would be covered by the water in your container. Your goal is to minimize the amount of organic material to limit decay. Submerged leaves will get soggy and eventually rot, which can be harmful to the cutting. Then, fill the container with fresh tap water and replace it once every few days. You don’t need to use distilled water or anything special; almost all houseplants are completely fine with tap water (the exception being carnivorous plants like the venus fly trap that evolved in bogs with completely pure water).

Once roots appear, add a weak fertilizer like LiquiDirt to provide nutrients for your cutting. I prefer to use a liquid, dilutable fertilizer because adding too many nutrients to the water can allow algae to grow. Not only does algae ruin the aesthetics of clear containers, it can also start to compete with your cuttings and provide more organic material to encourage bacteria and disease. Click on the image or link to check the current price:

Liqui-Dirt Nano Powder All-Purpose Organic Complete Plant Food for Indoor or Outdoor Use (Makes over 50 gallons) 18 Balanced Super Foods -Balanced Blend of Vitamins Minerals Micro-Fungi and Bio-Organisms

Ensuring success when water propagating

To complete the equation for plant growth, you need to continue to provide oxygen and sunlight to your cuttings. While submerged, the only oxygen available to your cutting is what is dissolved in the water. Replacing water frequently helps keep it from getting too state. Adding a small airstone, like the kind used in fishtanks, will keep oxygen levels higher in large water vessels with lots of cuttings or expensive ones that need the best shot at success. Click on the image or link to check the current price:

Quiet Aquarium Air Pump 1.5 Watt Energy Saving Mini Oxygen Pump for 1-15 Gallon Fish Tank with Accessories White

Make sure to provide your cuttings plenty of light, by placing them in a bright window or under a grow light. While they are in the fragile state of rooting, it is especially critical that they receive enough light. The majority of houseplants need “bright, indirect light,” which means approximately 20% of the strength of direct outdoor sun. It may surprise you to learn that even a few feet away from the window, indoor light levels are usually 1% or less of the light outdoors. Our eyes are meant to work in varying light levels so humans are not good at distinguishing the exponential scale of light intensity. Nevertheless, it makes a big difference to our plants!

Don’t worry if you don’t have the perfect windowsill; grow lights are an easy option to make sure your cuttings can thrive in any location in your home. GE grow lights are my favorite because they come in multiple sizes and can fit into a normal lightbulb socket. The light is high intensity and optimized for plant grow, but appears bright white, which looks great in your home compared to ugly purple grow lights. I always order them on Amazon because the price is usually discounted compared to big box hardware stores. Click on the image or link to check the current price:

GE Grow LED Light Bulb, For Seeds and Greens, Balanced Light Spectrum, Medium Base, PAR38 Bulb Shape (Pack of 1)

Rooting plant cuttings in water vs soil

Because water roots don’t need to draw moisture from the soil and maneuver around obstacles, they grow thinner with more fragile root hairs. As a result, water roots can grow more quickly than soil roots. The main benefit of the speed of water rooting is that your cutting will be able to sustain itself again more quickly. As a result, it remains more healthy and less stressed.

Furthermore, water is a cleaner medium without organic material like soil. Rooting cuttings in soil requires consistent moisture levels that can cut off the airflow in the soil. This leads to an anaerobic environment with harmful microorganisms, disrupting the balance of the soil’s ecosystem. When that happens, it is easy for cuttings to rot.

You may wonder if the speed that water roots grow versus soil roots means that the overall propagation process will happen faster. The answer is sometimes, but not necessarily, because cuttings grown in water need to transition to soil to start growing soil roots. The overall time depends on how well you transition your cuttings.

Transitioning cuttings from water to soil

There is a common misconception that plants that grow from cuttings in water for too long cannot be switched back to soil. In fact, the reality is more complicated. The longer the plant grows in water, the more water roots it will develop. More roots are always better than less when transitioning a plant between mediums, even if they are not the correct type. The difficulties that might arise from switching plant cuttings in water to soil result from 1. the amount of roots needed to sustain a certain sized plant in water versus soil and 2. keeping the water roots happy in the new medium while the plant starts its soil roots.

Plant type

You may have heard that one type of plant or another is difficult to transition between mediums or doesn’t do well. In truth, no plant likes being replanted in a different medium because it is disruptive and not part of its normal growth routine. The success of the transplant depends mainly on how well you acclimate the plant to its new conditions, not the type of plant.

How much water roots is enough?

First, let’s address the amount of roots. Due to the ease of receiving water and nutrients, a plant growing in water needs a smaller root system. For example, say you have a plant with three leaves that grows exactly enough roots to sustain itself in water. Once you move that plant to soil, that same amount of roots might only be enough to sustain two leaves in a more challenging environment, so the plant will shed its oldest leaf. In order to prevent leaf loss when transitioning, you should wait until your plant has more than enough roots.

How do you know how much that is? The exact length or quantity of roots depends a lot on the plant, so there is a lot of varying advice. The easiest way to know is to look at your plant’s behavior. Once you see visible signs of growth, such as a new leaf starting, you know the plant has enough roots to sustain itself. Take a picture to remember what the size of the root system is. Then, wait until the root system increases by half, or one and a half times (150%) of the original size. Switching the cutting to soil after this point ensures that it can afford to lose some roots. Even if it loses up to 1/3 of its water collection efficiency, there will still be enough roots to sustain the new plant.

Acclimating plants grown from cuttings in water to soil

Lastly, take into account the difference between water and soil roots. Once you place your cutting in soil, any new roots it grows will be soil roots. In the meantime, though, the water roots are used to consistently moist conditions. If you wait until the soil is dry before watering the first time, the water roots can dry out too much and die. Ease the transition for your cutting by starting off planting it in moist soil, and gradually reduce the amount of water for a few weeks until you are watering normally for a soil-grown plant. Click on the image or link to check the current price:

Atree Soil Moisture Meter, Plant Moisture Meter, Plant Water Meter for House Plants, Soil Test Kit Hygrometer Moisture Sensor for Garden, Farm, Lawn, Indoor & Outdoor (No Battery Needed)

Want to use what we use to propagate plants? Check out our recommended best plant propagation supplies on Amazon!

The post Top 9 Best Plants that Grow From Cuttings in Water: Easy! appeared first on Plant Propagation Guide.

Tradescantia plant names

Tradescantia come in many varieties, patterns, and colors, including cream, pink, purple, and burgundy in addition to green. The name “Tradescantia” refers to many different species of plants in the Tradescantia genus, as well as some in the genus Callisia. Tradescantia also has a variety of nicknames to match its variety of species, including inch plant, spiderwort, and dayflower. Some varieties are fuzzy, while others have smooth leaves.

Some of the most popular species of tradescantia (with nicknames in parenthesis) include:

• Zebrina – the most common type of tradescantia has green leaves with silver zebra stripes and magenta undersides. Tradescantia zebrina comes in a variety of cultivars including “quadricolor” and “red gem”.
• Blossfeldiana (lilac, bubblegum, or nanouk) – green leaves striped with pink and cream, with purple undersides
• Sillamontana (white velvet) – green leaves covered in silver-white fuzz
• Spathacea (boat lily, oyster plant, or Moses-in-the-cradle) – elongated green and purple leaves with pearl-like flowers
• Fluminensis (small-leaf spiderwort) – green striped with lavender, yellow, or white
• Pallida (purple heart) – fully dark purple leaves
• Mundula (rainbow or tricolor) – green leaves with pink and white variegation

Wandering Jew plant name versus tradescantia

“Wandering Jew” is an old nickname for some species of tradescantia that has been retired from common use. Even when used with good intentions, this name has anti-Semitic origins so it’s best to use the real name or another nickname instead. You can learn more about the history of tradescantia names at the House Plant Hobbyist blog.

When to propagate tradescantia

Tradescantia is a hearty plant that you can propagate often. Most commonly, people propagate their tradescantia when the strands become “leggy.” This means that the stems have become too long compared to the density of the leaves. For example, a leggy plant might have a few long stems with only a few leaves. The result is a plant that looks scraggly instead of full and bushy.

Tradescantia and other plants become leggy when they are not receiving enough light. The stems of the plant grow longer between each leaf because they are stretching to get closer to the light. If you want to take the guesswork out of lighting once and for all, the best thing you can do is buy a light meter. This will tell you the exact light measurement in foot candles. You can use this information to perfect the placement of every plant and grow light in your home. This the one I use. It is a great value, easy to use, and works perfectly. Click on the image or link to check the current price:

GE Grow LED Light Bulb, For Seeds and Greens, Balanced Light Spectrum, Medium Base, PAR38 Bulb Shape (Pack of 1)

Although it’s a symptom of insufficient lighting, a leggy appearance doesn’t harm your plant. On the other hand, because we use houseplants as decorations in our homes, we can improve the aesthetics via propagation. Propagating tradescantia allows you to prune off leggy stems. Then, returning the rooted cuttings to the same pot can improve the bushiness of your plant by double or even more!

How to cut tradescantia to propagate

The correct way to take tradescantia cuttings is by first identifying your plant’s nodes. If you take a close look at your plant, you can see that there are one or many strands in the pot. Each leaf grows out of a stem, and at the point where the leaf and stem connect there is a ridge around the stem. This is the node.

Can you grow tradescantia from cuttings

An entirely new plant can be grown from a tradescantia cutting as long as you have at least one node in the cutting. The new bud will sprout from the stem near a node, so make sure to leave a little room on each side of the node. New roots also grow from the node.

To take a cutting, identify a location on the stem between two nodes. Using sharp shears to avoid crushing the stem tissue, slice through the stem at the midpoint between the nodes. Depending on how long the stem is, you can repeat the process multiple times to separate many cuttings. The tip cutting of each stem, which includes the newest leaf, will grow new leaves the fastest. Cuttings further down the stem, or mid cuttings, take a bit longer. Click on the image or link for the current price:

Ultra Snip 6.7 Inch Pruning Shear with Stainless Steel Blades

Types of cuttings

The minimum cutting size is a single node (corresponding to a single leaf), which will yield the maximum number of baby plants. The downside of single node cuttings is that they can be hard to position in the propagation medium and take longer to grow. If you want a head start on new long strands in your pot, you can instead take longer cuttings with several nodes. 3-4 inches is a good length. Longer cuttings are easier to propagate and look like a regular plant the soonest.

Aim to leave at least 2/3 of the parent plant behind so that you don’t cut off more than 1/3 of its leaves at once. Soon, you’ll notice new growth on the parent plant coming from the nodes left behind.

Before placing in the rooting medium, you can allow the cut ends of the stem to callous over. Do this by leaving the cuttings in the open air for a few hours. For tradescantia, this step is not critical and your cuttings should be successful either way.

Propagating tradescantia from leaf

Sometimes, you might find yourself in a situation where you have a tradescantia leaf without any of the stem. Regardless of the cause, without a node you cannot propagate just a leaf. It may grow roots and survive for a while but it will not turn into a new plant.

Rooting tradescantia

You’re in luck when rooting tradescantia because this plant roots extremely quickly! The reason for tradescantia’s rooting speed can be traced back to its growth pattern in the wild. As a “creeping” or “carpeting” plant, tradescantia is low growing and often used for groundcover. It spreads across the ground when its trailing stems make contact with the soil and take root, giving the plant a water and nutrient boost to grow faster. As a result, it is adapted to send out root shoots quickly whenever a node is placed in a suitable medium.

How long for tradescantia to root

Tradescantia cuttings can start to grow roots in a matter of days, and be finished rooting in a few weeks. Furthermore, because they are robust plants with small leaves, they don’t need many roots to be ready to replant. Once the roots are a few inches long they are ready to go!

How to propagate tradescantia in water

The best method for propagating tradescantia cuttings is in water. Place each cutting in a container of clean water so that the node is submerged. Then, replace the water every few days.

For a multi-leaf cutting, you can remove the bottom leaves so that it is easier to get more nodes under the water. Leaves that are submerged will start to rot eventually. Preferably you want to keep any remaining leaves above the water level.

Using a clear container for propagating will allow you to watch the roots form. Cut off any leaves or stem that turn brown or black and mushy. Make sure to choose a container with a wide mouth so that the cuttings will be easy to remove once roots grow. Click on the image or link for the current price:

Desktop Plant Terrarium Propagation Station- 3 Pcs Tabletop Glass Planter Water Planting Glass Vase with Lid & Wooden Stand for Growing Hydroponic Plants Home Office Table Decoration

Adding a gentle fertilizer like liquidirt to your propagating water can keep your cuttings fed without causing algae to grow in the water. Start adding fertilizer once you see roots starting to grow. Before it has roots the plant doesn’t have a method to absorb the nutrients. Click on the image or link for the current price:

Liqui-Dirt Nano Powder All-Purpose Organic Complete Plant Food for Indoor or Outdoor Use (Makes over 50 gallons) 18 Balanced Super Foods -Balanced Blend of Vitamins Minerals Micro-Fungi and Bio-Organisms

How to propagate tradescantia in soil

To propagate in soil, select a soil mix with a moisture retaining element. I prefer mixes that use coconut coir like rePotme soil, instead of peat like MiracleGro. Coir is more sustainable & is easy to rewet, where peat can become hydrophobic (water repelling) if it gets too dry. It’s also important to choose a soil with chunky add-ins like perlite to improve drainage. Ingredients with a large particle size help the soil stay moist but not waterlogged. Click on the image or link for the current price:

rePotme Houseplant and Tropical Classic Potting Soil Mix – Mini Bag

Select a pot for your cuttings that will comfortably fit them without extra room on the sides or bottom. Large volumes of extra soil retain too much water and take too long to dry out. Fill the pot partially with soil, place the cuttings in, and fill the rest of the way so that the nodes are under the surface. Try to keep all leaves above the soil, and cut off any that might be buried. Water the cuttings right away, and keep the soil slightly damp to the touch until the cuttings root. It can be difficult to tell what’s happening under the surface, so give one cutting a slight tug. If you find resistance, that means its roots are developing well!

The benefit of rooting in soil is that you don’t need to replant your cuttings once they root. Just return to your typical watering routine of letting the top layer of soil become dry to the touch before watering again.

Soil rooting dangers

For most houseplants, I don’t recommend propagating in soil, but tradescantia is an exception. This plant roots so easily that common soil propagation issues like rot, that can be devastating when they occur invisibly below the level of the soil, are less of a concern.

Rot occurs most commonly when weakened or dying tissue is exposed to organic contaminants for a long period of time in an area that is moist with limited airflow. Your tradescantia cuttings will quickly grow enough roots to sustain themselves, keeping them healthy to resist rot. Furthermore, you only need to keep the soil consistently wet for a week or two until the cuttings establish their roots, limiting the window of ideal rot conditions.

Soil rooting tradescantia without cutting first

As a bonus technique, if your parent plant has very long strands you can try looping them back into the pot. Fasten them using a curved wire or bobby pin so as many nodes as possible are in contact with the soil. When the nodes starting rooting into the pot, you can then cut them free from the original stem. This method allows you to root your tradescantia cuttings prior to separating them from the parent plant’s stem. It works best if you plan to keep your cuttings with the parent, as the roots can be difficult to untangle.

Want to use what we use to propagate plants? Check out our recommended best plant propagation supplies on Amazon!

The post How to Propagate Tradescantia: Cuttings, Rooting, and Care Made Easy! appeared first on Plant Propagation Guide.

Types of money plant

The scientific name of the Chinese money plant is Pilea peperomioides. As a result, it is also known by the nickname pilea plant. Other common nicknames include “pancake plant” and “UFO plant”. The common name of this plant comes from its native habitat in the Yunnan and Sichuan provinces of China as well as its coin-shaped leaves.

Besides the pilea plant, there are many other houseplants also referred to as “money plants”. To begin with, Pachira aquatica, the money tree, is known for its braided trunk and five-leaf clusters. In addition, the golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum) and jade plant (Crassula ovata) can carry that nickname as well. Although the phrase “money plant” is a common nickname, each of these plants are different species with different needs.

If you feel confused about which type you have, take a look at the plant’s leaves. Pilea plants have circular peltate leaves. This means that the petiole, or leaf stalk, attaches to the leaf at the center. Pilea also have a central stalk that all the petioles grow from, causing the leaves to form a half orb around the stalk. The combination of these features makes pilea distinct from other common houseplants.

Pilea propagation methods

If you’ve had a pilea plant for a long time, you might notice baby plants or “pups” popping up in the pot. Pilea pups can grow from the plant’s stem or its roots. Because the plant naturally forms babies, the easiest way to propagate pilea is to separate the pups from the parent plant. If your pilea doesn’t have any babies yet, you can also propagate it via cuttings. We’ll go over all the methods here.

How to separate Chinese money plant babies

The two types of pilea pups have different names and cutting methods. First, stem pups, known as offsets or offshoots, grow directly from the plant’s main stem. You can separate offsets by trimming them with sharp pruning shears as close to the main stalk as possible. Pruning shears help make a single clean cut without causing crushing damage to the stems. Pups trimmed from offsets usually don’t have any roots yet, so after cutting you will need to root them. Click on the image or link to see the current price:

Ultra Snip 6.7 Inch Pruning Shear with Stainless Steel Blades

In comparison, the other type of pup grows from the roots of the pilea on a structure called a rhizome. Rhizome pups attach to the parent plant under the soil. In order to separate these pups, remove the plant from its pot and gently loosen the soil around the top of the plant with your fingers or a chopstick. When the rhizome is visible, you should be able to see a connection from the parent to the pup. Using your shears, cut partway along the rhizome. Choose your cutting location so that the baby plant still has some underground roots attached to it. Then, you can return the parent plant to its pot.

How to propagate Chinese money plant from stem cutting

Because pilea plants produce pups, it is not necessary to cut the parent plant to create babies; however, there are some reasons you may want to take a stem cutting. The most common reason to take a stem cutting is if your pilea plant has lost many leaves and the bottom of the stalk is bare. The plant will not grow new leaves where they fell off, so taking a top cutting can improve the appearance of your plant.

Using your pruning shears, cut the top of the stalk off the plant, including an inch or two of bare stem. The bottom of your cutting needs to be covered by the rooting medium, so leaving some bare stem will ensure that no leaves are covered. The bottom stump of the plant you can leave in the pot to grow new pups around it.

In the future, you can avoid pilea dropping leaves by improving its care inside your home. The most common issue with indoor plants is insufficient light. Providing enough light for your houseplants not only makes them grow faster, but it also helps other areas like watering. When plants photosynthesize, they take up more water from their roots, which means you can water more consistently without worrying about overwatering them. Click on the image or link to see the current price:

Dr.meter LX1330B Digital Illuminance Light Meter, 0-200,000 Measurement Range Lux Meter

Pilea light needs are measured in foot-candles, a common method for measuring light intensity. Indoor pilea need at least 200 foot candles to survive. Although pileas are a shade-loving plant, it might surprise you to know that outdoor shade is up to 2000 foot candles (compared to 10,000 foot candles of direct sun). In conclusion, pilea plants need more light than you might expect to thrive, and if you don’t have a bright enough window you can supplement your plant’s light with a grow light. Click on the image or link to see the current price:

GE Grow LED Light Bulb, For Seeds and Greens, Balanced Light Spectrum, Medium Base, PAR38 Bulb Shape (Pack of 1)

Can you propagate Chinese money plant from a single leaf?

If your pilea is unhappy and drops a leaf, you might wonder if you can propagate that leaf into a new plant. While pilea can be propagated from leaves, you need to use a healthy leaf with a piece of stem attached. Unfortunately, fallen leaves are no longer healthy and will not grow a new plant if you try to propagate them. Leaves with no stem may root but will never grow any new leaves.

Instead, collect a fresh green leaf from your pilea using a knife or sharp pruning shears. Make sure to include a slice of the stem, but don’t cut all the way through the stalk. If your pilea receives adequate lighting, the petioles may be close together on the stalk and it can be difficult to only cut one leaf. This cutting method takes the longest to grow a new plant but it uses the least amount of plant material.

Pilea rooting methods

Once you’ve cut your new plants, you can treat them to speed up the rooting process and help avoid rot. The larger the cutting, the more important it is to grow roots quickly to sustain the plant. I like to use Clonex rooting gel, which contains a hormone to promote root growth. Rooting hormone also comes in a powder format, but I prefer gel because it will stay on the cut end even under water, while the powder will wash off. Click on the image or link to see the current price:

HydroDynamics Clonex Rooting Gel, 100 ml

Each cutting just needs a tiny bit of rooting hormone. Dip the cut end into the hormone until there is a thin layer over the cut. Then you can place your cutting into the rooting medium of choice. Pups that already have roots do not need any rooting hormone, and it won’t benefit them to add it.

How to propagate Chinese money plant in soil

Soil is the best propagation medium for pups that already have roots, such as those taken from rhizomes. Rooted pups are ready to become self-sustaining plants without any other steps. Make sure to plant them in a well-draining houseplant potting mix. There are three ways to get good soil for your pilea.

Soil mixes for pilea

1. Amend regular potting mix (like Miracle-Gro) with perlite to improve drainage. Big box store potting mix, even if promoted as well draining, is often too dense for most plants when grown indoors. Adding a coarse chunky perlite in a ratio of 40% perlite to 60% percent potting soil will improve aeration of the soil and keep your plant’s roots happy. I always get this perlite since it’s the only one I’ve found that doesn’t contain a lot of dust. Click on the image or link to see the current price:

Mother Earth Perlite #3, Covers 4 cu. ft., Large and Coarse, Average Size 1/2 inch, For Hydroponic Use, Neutral pH

2. Create your own custom potting mix by combining the ingredients yourself. This gives you 100% control over your plant’s soil and can be economical if you have a lot of plants to repot.

3. Use a high quality commercial custom mix. The rePotme mixes contain similar ingredients to my custom mix. For example, in addition to containing aerating materials like perlite, the rePotme soil uses my favorite moisture-retaining ingredient: coco coir. This soil is a huge improvement over peat-based soils like Miracle-Gro because it is sustainable and doesn’t repel water when dry. Although they don’t make a mix specifically for pilea, the general houseplant mix is a good choice. Click on the image or link to see the current price:

rePotme Houseplant and Tropical Classic Potting Soil Mix – Mini Bag

Unrooted cuttings in soil

I don’t recommend putting unrooted pilea cuttings into soil. While the benefit of not having to replant them later can sound appealing, soil rooting is the riskiest method. Cuttings buried under soil are difficult to check root growth, they can become anaerobic and rot if the soil is too dense or waterlogged, and the organic material in the soil can introduce disease.

How to propagate Chinese money plant in water

Water is my rooting method of choice for unrooted pilea cuttings and pups. Water keeps your plant hydrated with consistent moisture levels, and is usually the fastest rooting method for fresh, healthy cuttings. In addition, it is easy to remove the cuttings when they have roots to plant in soil.

To propagate in water, place the pups or cuttings in a clear container filled with fresh tap water. You want at least an inch of stem to be submerged in the water, but no leaves underwater because they can rot. If the stem isn’t long enough, you can remove the bottom leaves. Replace the water every few days. The clear container will allow you to keep a close eye on your plant’s progress. Click on the image or link to see the current price:

Desktop Plant Terrarium Propagation Station- 3 Pcs Tabletop Glass Planter Water Planting Glass Vase with Lid & Wooden Stand for Growing Hydroponic Plants Home Office Table Decoration

Here are a few bonus tips to help with water rooting! One downside of water rooting is limited airflow around the roots. You can add an aquarium airstone bubbler to a larger water vessel to improve airflow and speed up the rooting process. Click on the image or link to see the current price:

Quiet Aquarium Air Pump 1.5 Watt Energy Saving Mini Oxygen Pump for 1-15 Gallon Fish Tank with Accessories White

Furthermore, once roots have started to grow you can add a weak fertilizer. I like liquidirt because it provides micronutrients that plants need but is gentle enough not to burn them or cause algae to grow in the water. Click on the image or link to see the current price:

Liqui-Dirt Nano Powder All-Purpose Organic Complete Plant Food for Indoor or Outdoor Use (Makes over 50 gallons) 18 Balanced Super Foods -Balanced Blend of Vitamins Minerals Micro-Fungi and Bio-Organisms

When your cuttings or pups have roots that are a few inches long, they are ready to be planted in soil and you are ready to enjoy your new baby Chinese money plants!

Want to use what we use to propagate plants? Check out our recommended best propagation supplies on Amazon!

The post How to Propagate Chinese Money Plant (Pilea Peperomioides) | Easy! appeared first on Plant Propagation Guide.

Identifying pothos

The name pothos is used for lots of different plants, which can get super confusing! First, we’ll break down all the varieties so you can tell what plant you are propagating.

Epipremnum aureum, the golden pothos, is the most common variety. This houseplant also goes by the names devil’s ivy and money plant. While the pothos you see at nurseries typically grow leaves smaller than your hand, they can get much larger with the right conditions. In tropical locations like Hawaii, golden pothos climb dozens of feet up tree trunks and achieve a mature form with leaf splits called “fenestrations” just like monstera leaves.

In addition, golden pothos are not always gold and green, and come in a wide variety of color patterns. N’joy, jade, manjula, global green, neon, marble queen, snow queen, emerald, glacier, jessenia, and pearls & jade are all variations of Epipremnum aureum. In contrast, silver pothos and satin pothos, so-called because of the silvery sheen of their leaves, are actually the plant scindapsus pictus.

Likewise, epipremnum pinnatum is another plant in the same epipremnum genus that is sometimes called pothos. This plant has longer and thinner leaves that get fenestrations more easily, earning it the nickname “dragon tail.” The popular but harder to find cebu blue and baltic blue pothos are both epipremnum pinnatum.

Pothos vs Philodendrons

Lastly, pothos look very similar to another common plant, the heartleaf philodendron (Philodendron hederaceum). Like the pothos, heartleaf philodendrons come in lots of patterns and varieties like lemon lime, brazil, and micans. You can tell these plants apart by a few small differences. For example, pothos have thicker leaves with a round base while heartleaf philodendron leaves are thinner and heart-shaped. Furthermore, pothos leaves unfurl from the previous leaf, while philodendron leaves grow from a sheath called a cataphyll that dries up and falls off once the leaf has opened.

Fortunately, all of these plants have the same growth habits, creating long trailing or climbing vines. This means that the way you propagate them is identical!

How to cut pothos for propagation

In this section we will plan the best place to cut your pothos, before finally making the cut.

Parts of a pothos vine

The most important things to remember when propagating pothos is that you always need a node. A cutting with just a leaf will not grow a new plant. To be sure your cutting has a node, let’s go through the parts of a pothos in detail.

To begin, nodes are the ridges around the stem of the pothos. Each petiole (the long green stalk that holds the leaf) grows out of a node. As a general rule, there will be one node for every leaf, but there can be a few more nodes than leaves if the plant lost a leaf, or a new stem grew from a previous cut.

Nodes are the location in the plant where new vines can start. Right above each node is an axillary bud, the dormant shoot of a new stem, waiting to be awakened by a cut. The axillary bud on a pothos is usually not visible until it is activated.

The internode is the portion of the main vine between nodes. In order to get a node in your cutting, you need to cut the plant on the main stem on the internode, not on the petiole or leaf. If you cut just a leaf, it will not contain a node.

Pothos aerial roots

You also might see some aerial roots growing from your pothos stem. Aerial roots start out as a white nub breaking through the stem. Usually they will stay as a nub and develop a brown or bark-like covering over time, especially if they are on an older part of the plant.

Pothos use aerial roots to cling onto trees and climb in the wild. If the aerial roots contact a growing medium, like a climbing pole or the soil, they can start to grow into normal roots. Additionally, if you have your pothos plant in high humidity (60% or higher), the aerial roots are more likely to continue to grow in the air instead of stopping at a nub.

When picking a place to take a cutting from your pothos, look for a vine with aerial roots as your first choice. Cuttings with aerial roots will root faster because the aerial roots can extend into normal roots. If your pothos doesn’t have any, that is ok too! The roots will grow out of the stem near the node.

Where to cut a pothos

Depending on the size of your pothos plant, you may have one or many vines. You can trim the tips or cut them back all the way, but leave at least one node to regrow from. In total, plan to leave at least 2/3 of the leaves on the parent plant.

• Top Cutting – A top cutting is the most basic, and requires just one snip. By separating the top of the stem from the bottom, cutting on the internode, you remove the plant’s terminal bud, the growth point at the top of the stem. Top cuttings are the best type of cutting because they start growing again the fastest and the new leaves will not lose much maturity.
• Mid Cutting – Once you remove the top cutting, you can separate additional cuttings from the middle of the stem. Each middle cut requires two snips, one above and one below. A mid cutting will start growing a new stem from its node’s axillary bud, so it will be starting over in terms of leaf size and maturity.

Each cutting only needs to contain one node. For this reason, you can split a long cutting into many pieces. Because pothos root so easily, there isn’t much benefit to leaving more, unless you want your baby plant to start with a longer vine.

How to take cuttings from a mature pothos

In case you have a plant with mature leaves and fenestrations, here are a few extra tips. Remember, only a top cutting, aka the tip of the vine, because it will maintain the leaf size. Any mid cuttings or bottom cuttings (vines left on the parent plant) will grow smaller leaves from their newly activated buds. If you’re buying, don’t spend extra money on a cutting from a mature pothos plant unless 1. it is a top cutting and 2. you will be able to provide similar growing conditions to maintain leaf size.

Can you propagate pothos without a node?

You cannot propagate a pothos plant without a node. If you have a cutting with no node, it may survive for a while but will never grow a new plant.

Can you propagate pothos without leaves?

Yes, a cutting that contains a node but without any leaves is a stem cutting – also known as a node or “wet stick.” In fact, propagating a pothos without a leaf is definitely possible. It just takes longer to grow roots and new leaves with no existing leaves to perform photosynthesis.

Making the cut

At this point, we have plan and are ready to cut! Identify the location of the node, and make sure it is included in the cutting. Make sure to leave as much room as possible on either side of the node. This provides space to spare if you experience rot.

Using a pair of clean, sharp shears, separate your cutting from the vine. Cut the stem cleanly, without causing any crushing damage, to keep the tissue healthy. I recommend these shears. Click on the image or link to see the current price:

Ultra Snip 6.7 Inch Pruning Shear with Stainless Steel Blades

Treating the cut

Normally, at this stage in propagation we would add rooting hormone to the cut ends. For most plants, this decreases rooting time, but pothos naturally root quickly without rooting hormone. In fact, the University of Florida Pothos Production Guide states that indolebutyric acid, the active ingredient in rooting hormone gel, does not benefit pothos rooting time.

Once you are done cutting, leave the cuttings out a few hours until the cut ends are no longer wet. They will naturally form a callous to protect the plant.

How to root pothos cuttings

Now that you have your cuttings, they need to grow roots to survive. Any rooting method will work for pothos cuttings, but each have pros and cons. My preferred method for pothos is water rooting, for its simplicity. This method is most effective for fresh, healthy cuttings. For all methods, make sure the node and aerial root are kept moist.

Consider the things your cutting needs to grow roots and avoid rot:

Moisture keeps your plant alive without roots and encourages root growth. Keep aerial roots consistently wet and covered by the propagation medium. High humidity around the plant will limit water loss. Airflow is important in a high humidity environment to maintain oxygen around roots and prevent root rot.

To avoid stem rot, keep the cut ends of the stem as dry as possible. The best way to do this is by suspending them out of the propagating medium. It can be impractical to keep both ends out, but if you use a container that is taller than it is wide you can usually keep at least one end out.

How long does it take to propagate pothos?

In optimal conditions, pothos cuttings root in 3-4 weeks, and new buds can start to grow in 1-2 weeks. The typical household conditions are colder and darker than tropical plants prefer, so it may take longer. Keep reading to learn how to improve propagation conditions in your home.

How to propagate pothos fast – lighting

The most important factor in plant growth, whether cuttings or established plants, is light. While pothos plants can survive in most household lighting conditions, they need more light to thrive.

For example, a common measure of light intensity is foot-candles. A few feet away from a window light levels are around a few hundred foot candles. 125 foot candles is enough for pothos to stay alive, but you might be surprised to learn that the “bright indirect” light pothos need for best growth is much more than this.

In comparison, direct outdoor sunlight on a cloudless day can be up to 10,000 foot candles! Even in full shade, outdoor plants receive 1000-2000 foot candles.

Commercial greenhouses keep their pothos plants in sunlight under shade cloths or very bright lights to achieve 3000-5000 foot candles. These levels are the best “bright indirect” light conditions for maximum pothos growth and rooting speed.

If you want to take the guesswork out of lighting once and for all, the best thing you can do is buy a light meter. Click on the image or link to see the current price:

Dr.meter LX1330B Digital Illuminance Light Meter, 0-200,000 Measurement Range Lux Meter

It is possible to achieve greenhouse light intensity indoors by using a dedicated grow light, or very bright window. I love using GE brand grow light bulbs because my north-facing Seattle windows just aren’t bright enough. These bulbs fit into normal sockets but can help you achieve light levels in the thousands of foot candles. Even better, they are a beautiful daylight white color that looks great in your home. I always buy these on Amazon instead of a big box store because the price is usually better. Click on the image or link to see the current price:

GE Grow LED Light Bulb, For Seeds and Greens, Balanced Light Spectrum, Medium Base, PAR38 Bulb Shape (Pack of 1)

When increasing light levels, make sure to increase the intensity gradually to avoid leaf burn. You can do this by moving the plant closer to the light source over time.

How to propagate pothos fast – fertilizer

Until your cutting grows roots, you don’t need to add nutrients to the water you use to moisten your propagation medium, because it can’t absorb them. Once roots begin to grow, you can add nutrients to help it grow faster. I use a few drops of Liqui-Dirt added to the water. This weak fertilizer can boost baby plants without risk of overfertilizing. Click on the image or link to see the current price:

Liqui-Dirt Nano Powder All-Purpose Organic Complete Plant Food for Indoor or Outdoor Use (Makes over 50 gallons) 18 Balanced Super Foods -Balanced Blend of Vitamins Minerals Micro-Fungi and Bio-Organisms

Growing pothos cuttings in winter

The ideal growing temperature for pothos is 70 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. If the temperature is too high or too low they will root and send out new buds much more slowly. In an indoor environment, you can control the temperature of your cuttings so that they are not affected by changing seasons. The easiest way to maintain tropical temperatures for your cuttings is a heating mat. Click on the image or link for the current price:

10″x20.75″ Seedling Heat Mat and Thermostat Controller 68-108°F Digital Thermostat Controller IP68 Waterproof (Heated mat+Thermostat Controller)

How to propagate pothos in water

Water is the simplest way of propagating most plants! Fill a glass or jar with water, place the cutting in with the water level above the node, and replace the water every few days. A fish tank air stone can be added to increase water oxygen levels. I use this method for healthy, low risk cuttings that I am confident will root long before they rot in a lower airflow environment — and freshly cut pothos are a perfect example. We recommend this fish air pump. Click on the image or link for the current price:

Quiet Aquarium Air Pump 1.5 Watt Energy Saving Mini Oxygen Pump for 1-15 Gallon Fish Tank with Accessories White

Pros: Can use a clear container to see roots form and check cutting for rot. Keeps your cutting from becoming dehydrated. Very easy to maintain consistent moisture around roots. No organic matter in medium to introduce disease. No damage to roots when removing from water. Roots grow quickly.

Cons: No airflow around roots. Only source of oxygen is what is dissolved in water. More difficult to transition roots grown in water to soil. Hard to keep stem out of water.

How to propagate pothos in soil

Many commercial nurseries that need to produce new plants efficiently just plant their pothos cuttings straight into soil. This method can work, especially with a fresh, healthy cutting, but it has the most downsides out of all the methods. For a home propagator, it is very difficult to achieve 100% success propagating in soil. I recommend this soil for pothos. Click on the image or link to check the current price:

Pothos Imperial Houseplant Potting Soil Mix by rePotme – Mini Bag (2 Quarts)

Pros: No transplanting required. Plant can benefit from nutrients in soil.

Cons: Hard to maintain consistent moisture. Can’t check on roots forming or see rot. Soil can become anaerobic if overwatered. Organic medium can introduce fungus or disease.

How to propagate pothos in perlite or LECA

Perlite has very similar benefits to water, with the addition of greater airflow. Perlite is absorbent and porous, so it will wick moisture up to areas of the container that are not underwater. Keep the container filled with a small reservoir of water below the level of the stem, and cover the top to hold in humidify around the roots.

I use this method for high risk, dehydrated cuttings. Since it takes more work than water, I only use it for rarer types of pothos that I only have a few cuttings of.

You can use any chunky, inorganic material for this method, like pumice or LECA (lightweight expanded clay aggregate), if you don’t have perlite. Perlite is my preference because it is so lightweight; it is easy to pull out the cutting to check on it without disturbing it too much. Heavier mediums will help the cutting stand up better, however. I recommend this LECA. Click on the image or link to check the current price:

Mother Earth Hydroton Original Clay Pebbles – 10 Liter, Lightweight Expanded Clay Aggregate

Make sure you pick a course perlite without fertilizer or dust. The ones available at nurseries and hardware stores usually have too many small grains and lots of dust that needs to be rinsed out. I recommend this perlite. Click on the image or link to check the current price:

Mother Earth Perlite #3, Covers 4 cu. ft., Large and Coarse, Average Size 1/2 inch, For Hydroponic Use, Neutral pH

Pros: Easy to maintain consistent moisture around roots. No organic matter in medium to introduce fungus or disease. Minimal damage to roots when removing from perlite. Allows airflow to roots.

Cons: Can’t check on roots forming or see rot.

How to propagate pothos in sphagnum moss

You can also propagate pothos in sphagnum moss in place of soil. Moist moss holds a lot of water, which is great for maintaining humidity around roots while still allowing airflow. This method can yield great results, but is difficult to execute correctly. People often have issues caused by moss that is too wet or too dry. I recommend this sphagnum moss. Click on the image or link to check the current price:

besgrow New Zealand Sphagnum Moss (100 Grams)

To make moisture retention easier when propagating lots of pothos cuttings at once, I use moss in a propagation box aka “prop box.” This is a container that seals to keep in humidity. First, lay the damp but not wet moss across the bottom of the container at least 1 inch deep. Next, place the cuttings on top of the moss. I put pieces of moss over any existing aerial roots to guide them into the medium, but leave the stem ends free. Last, place the lid on the container.

If your moss is moist enough, you should see condensation form on the lid. This means that your humidity is 100% and you should have to water the box only rarely. Make sure to open it once in a while to allow fresh air in. Choose a container with a clear lid so that your grow light can shine through. Click on the image or link to check the current price for this propagation dome:

Propagator with Humidity Vents Domes,Heavy Duty Growing Tray Mini Greenhouse for Seedlings, Clones

Pros: Maintains high moisture and humidity without liquid water. Lightweight and easy to shape around roots. Easier to keep stem out of medium. Roots transition more easily to soil.

Cons: Hard to maintain consistent moisture. Can’t check on roots forming or see rot. Damaging and time consuming to remove moss from roots. Organic medium can introduce fungus or disease.

Air layering

Air layering means growing out the aerial roots of your plant into soil roots before cutting it. This method is usually performed with bundles of sphagnum moss wrapped around the aerial roots. You can use plastic wrap, ziplock bags, or other containers to keep the moss moist. You can also air layer by guiding aerial roots into moss on a pole, or placing aerial roots into an additional container of soil or water.

Air layering is labor-intensive, but it is the safest method of propagation. For this reason, it is the best choice for rare or valuable plants. An air-layered cutting can grow enough roots to sustain itself before it is even removed from the parent plant.

How to plant pothos cuttings

Keep a close eye on your cuttings when you propagate pothos, because their roots grow quickly! Pothos cuttings are ready to plant when they have a main root a few inches long with smaller roots branching off it. I recommend planting many pothos cuttings together in a pot, at least 5 for a small plant, so that it will create a full looking plant as fast as possible. There are two key things you need to decide on when planting: the pot type and soil type.

Best pot for planting pothos cuttings

When selecting a pot, look for one that is just wide enough to fit the roots of the cuttings. If it is too wide the cuttings will not be able to use the moisture fast enough and may get root rot. I always choose clear pots with drainage holes for my pothos. The clear plastic sides let you keep an eye on root growth so you never have to guess when to repot. For aesthetic purposes, place the clear pot inside a decorative cache pot. That way you can have a draining pot on the inside that looks great on the outside. Click on the image or link to check the price on these clear pots:

4″ Rigid Clear Orchid Pots

Best soil for planting pothos cuttings

The best soil to use for pothos is one with aerating materials added to create a quick draining mix that holds moisture while giving airflow to the roots. You can create your own mix from scratch by buying all the ingredients separately, amend big box store potting soil to improve it, or buy a custom potting mix. I prefer to make my own or use a custom mix because common potting soil brands like Miracle-Gro use peat-based soil which 1. is not sustainable and 2. becomes hydrophobic (water repelling) when it gets too dry. Obviously, the last thing you want in a soil is for it to repel water when your plant needs it the most! This rePotme soil mix is an easy solution that uses coco coir, one of my favorite soil ingredients, instead of peat and is similar to the custom mix I make at home. Click on the image or link for the current price:

Pothos Imperial Houseplant Potting Soil Mix by rePotme – Mini Bag (2 Quarts)

Fill the bottom third of your clear pot with soil mix, place the cuttings in, and fill the rest of the pot with soil so that the nodes are above the surface (or as close to it as possible). This will allow the new buds to grow safely outside the soil. Make sure to water the plant until water drains out the bottom, and don’t let the soil dry out more than just the surface for at least two weeks until your new pothos is established in the soil. An easy sign of an established plant is white root growth visible through a clear-sided pot.

Want to propagate your plants using the same propagation supplies we use? Check out our recommendations!

The post How to Propagate Pothos: 4 Easy Ways & Bonus Tips! appeared first on Plant Propagation Guide.

How to cut a snake plant

The tall, blade-like leaves of a snake plant are its most distinctive feature. For that reason, we also call snake plants by the name “mother in law tongue.” Due to their unique shape, you may wonder where you need to cut in order to propagate a snake plant.

Unlike other houseplants such as pothos, snake plants do not have stems and nodes to propagate with. The leaf blades are instead connected by an underground growth called a “rhizome” that looks like a white stem. We can propagate snake plants by leaf cuttings and rhizome divisions, which are commonly known as “pups.”

How to cut snake plant leaves

To propagate from a leaf, select a leaf to cut. I choose one from the middle of the plant so the stub is not visible from outside. You can select multiple leaves to cut as long as you take no more than 1/3 of the plant’s leaves at once. Next, you’ll need a pair of pruning shears to cut through the thick leaf at the base. Shears cut the stem cleanly, without causing any crushing damage, to keep the tissue healthy. I recommend these shears:

Ultra Snip 6.7 Inch Pruning Shear with Stainless Steel Blades

Once you have a leaf cutting, you can propagate the whole leaf or cut it further. Keep in mind that each cutting only has the limited energy available within it to grow roots; the smaller the piece, the longer it will take to grow. If your goal is to make as many plants as possible, subdividing is the way to go. On the other hand, if you want to create a nice looking baby plant, whole leaves are the most appealing. Subdivided leaves do not grow back into full leaves, so they will stay as a stump.

To subdivide a leaf cutting, cut it into horizontal strips at least 2 inches tall. Don’t forget which side is the top and which is the bottom. The cuttings need to be placed top side up when rooting because the roots will grow from the bottom.

Treating the cuttings

Now that you have your cuttings, they need to grow roots to survive. In order to help them along, you can add rooting hormone to the cutting, if you wish. Plants naturally produce this hormone, which signals to the plant that it should grow roots, but by adding hormone you can encourage it to grow roots faster. Some rooting hormones also contain fungicide to prevent fungus or rot.

HydroDynamics Clonex Rooting Gel, 100 ml

Rooting hormone comes in powder and gel format. I use Clonex gel because it works in both wet and dry mediums. Powder only works in dry mediums (like soil and not water) because it will wash off in a liquid.

Whether or not hormone is applied to the cuttings, leave them out for a day or two for the cut ends to callous and form a barrier over the cut. Snake plants have succulent leaves so this takes longer than it does for other plants. When the cutting is no longer dripping water or sticky on the cut end, it’s ready to go.

How to divide a snake plant

Depending on how long you’ve owned your snake plant, you might notice new growths poking up through the soil. As the plant gets older and more mature, the rhizome grows bigger underground. Then once the new rhizome gets big enough, it will send up a new leaf shoot and create a baby pup. Without human help, snake plants reproduce in the wild using pups.

Leaving pups in your snake plant’s pot will help the plant become more full looking. If the pot is too full or you want to create new plants, it’s time to divide!

First, grab the plant by the leaf blades in one hand and pull the plant out of its pot. Gently remove any loose dirt. A chopstick can help loosen the plant and tease out dirt from the roots. You should see the orangish roots of the plant, as well as the white stemlike rhizomes between leaf clusters. You may also see rhizomes that don’t have any leaves growing yet. Using your pruning shears, cut cleanly through the rhizome to separate pups on the outer edge of the plant. When dividing, try to leave at least 2/3 of the parent plant intact. Gently detangle any roots on the cut pieces from the main plant’s roots.

What to do with snake plant divisions

If your rhizome divisions already have several root clusters, with smaller root branches coming off the main roots, then you can plant them directly into soil. If they have no roots or not enough roots, you will need to root them like you do with cuttings. Don’t worry though, since the rhizomes are already formed it will be easier and faster than rooting from a leaf. Ideally, let the rhizome divison cut dry, but only if you are able to keep the roots moist.

Which cutting method to use? Cutting vs divisions

The best method is up to your personal preferece. Each has pros and cons. For example, leaf cuttings are less complicated to take from the parent plant, while division requires you to dig the parent up. On the other hand, each leaf cutting will need to grow roots and then grow a new rhizome before it can start putting out new leaves. Because of these extra steps, leaf cuttings take longer to produce new growth than pups.

For variegated snake plant varieties, like “laurentii” and “moonshine,” leaf cuttings result in reverted babies that display no variegation. Variegated snake plants can only be propagated true to type by division.

How to grow a snake plant from cuttings

Now that you have your cuttings or rootless divisions, it’s time to grow them into new plants! The first step of creating a new plant is rooting. There are lots of methods that can work, but each have pros and cons. The right method depends on your preference as well as the specific plant type.

Slow-growing snake plants are also slow rooters, putting them at higher risk for rot than other plants. For this reason, I prefer high airflow methods like perlite and LECA for the most successful propagations, although it’s hard to beat the convenience of water.

Rooting method criteria

When choosing a rooting method, consider the things your cutting needs to grow roots and avoid rot:

Moisture keeps your plant alive without roots and encourages root growth. Any existing roots should be kept consistently wet. High humidity around the plant will limit water loss. Airflow is important in a high humidity environment to maintain oxygen around roots and prevent root rot.

Whichever method you choose, make sure the base end of your cutting or pup is covered by the rooting medium about 1 to 1 and a half inches down.

How to propagate a snake plant in water

Water is the least complicated way of propagating your snake plant! Fill a glass or jar with water, place the cutting in, and replace the water every few days. A fish tank air stone can be added to increase water oxygen levels. We recommend this fish air pump. Click on the image or link for the current price:

Quiet Aquarium Air Pump 1.5 Watt Energy Saving Mini Oxygen Pump for 1-15 Gallon Fish Tank with Accessories White

Since snake plants take so long to root, you may notice the cut end of the stem becoming goopy or soft from sitting in water. This is ok as long as the area is still light colored, but if it becomes dark brown or black and falls apart, it is rotting. Cut the rotted bottom off the cutting and try again.

Pros: Can use a clear container to see roots form and check cutting for rot. Keeps your cutting from becoming dehydrated & don’t need to worry about watering frequency. Very easy to maintain consistent moisture around roots. No organic matter in medium to introduce disease. No damage to roots when removing from water. Roots grow quickly in water. Extremely easy to set up.

Cons: No airflow around roots. Only source of oxygen is what is dissolved in water. More difficult to transition roots grown in water to soil. Cut end of stem is in water.

Using test tubes allows a plant to grow its initial root system. Plus, the clear tubes allow you to monitor progress. The vertical walls (i.e. no neck) of the tube ensures that removing the plant and its new roots is easy! If you plan on growing a very large root system, stop using the lid as the root system progresses. We recommend this propagation station. Click on the image or link for the current price:

Desktop Plant Terrarium Propagation Station- 3 Pcs Tabletop Glass Planter Water Planting Glass Vase with Lid & Wooden Stand for Growing Hydroponic Plants Home Office Table Decoration

How to propagate a snake plant in perlite

Perlite has similar benefits to water, with the addition of greater airflow. Perlite is absorbent and porous, so it will wick moisture up to areas of the container that are not underwater. Keep the container filled with a small reservoir of water below the level of the cut end of the leaf, and cover the top if possible to hold in humidity around the roots.

You can use any chunky, inorganic material for this method, like pumice or lava rocks, if you don’t have perlite. Perlite is my preference because it is so lightweight; it is easy to pull out the cutting to check on it without disturbing it too much. Heavier mediums will help tall leaf cuttings stand up better, however.

Make sure you pick a course perlite (#3 or bigger to minimize dust) without fertilizer. I recommend this perlite:

Mother Earth Perlite #3, Covers 4 cu. ft., Large and Coarse, Average Size 1/2 inch, For Hydroponic Use, Neutral pH

If the perlite you chose comes with dust, rinse it very thouroughly before use. Keep the perlite moist but not soaking around your cutting. You know the perlite has the right moisture content when it causes fogging on the inside of the container.

Pros: Easy to maintain consistent moisture around roots. No organic matter in medium to introduce fungus or disease. Minimal damage to roots when removing from perlite. Allows airflow to roots.

Cons: Can’t check on roots forming or see rot.

How to propagate a snake plant in LECA

LECA, short for lightweight expanded clay aggregate, is a larger sized wicking medium. Some people grow plants in LECA permanently even after they have roots, a process called “semi-hydroponics.” Fill a close-bottomed container with damp LECA in the bottom 1/3, then place in your cutting and surround with more LECA to hold it up. Fill the container with water to just below the level of the cutting and refill or replace the water as it goes down. In addition, covering the top of the container will help maintain humidity around the roots. As the plant grows roots, you can reduce the level of the water reservoir to just below the roots.

You can buy large bags easily from Hydroton brand on Amazon, and also find small LECA bags at Ikea! Make sure to buy a variety like the one linked here that is made out of expanded clay. Some smaller, smooth and colorful propagation balls are marketed as LECA on Amazon, but they are made of ceramsite and do not wick as well as real LECA.

Mother Earth Hydroton Original Clay Pebbles – 10 Liter, Lightweight Expanded Clay Aggregate

LECA comes covered in red clay dust so make sure to rinse it until the water runs clear before use.

Pros: Easy to maintain consistent moisture around roots. No organic matter in medium to introduce fungus or disease. Minimal damage to roots when removing. Allows airflow to roots. Large particle size is easier to work with than perlite and easier to see roots growing due to the large gaps between particles. Plants in LECA can go longer between waterings as the resevoir holds a lot of water.

Cons: Need to pay attention to maintain resevoir at correct height. LECA will not wick if it dries out completely. Requires more complicated care to grow plants in long term than soil.

How to propagate a snake plant in sphagnum moss

You can also propagate snake plants in sphagnum moss. Moist moss holds a lot of water, which is great for maintaining humidity around roots while still allowing airflow. A cover, like cling wrap or a humidity dome, can be used to hold humidity in the container. We recommend this propagator dome.

Propagator with Humidity Vents Domes,Heavy Duty Growing Tray Mini Greenhouse for Seedlings,Clones

This method can yield great results, but is difficult to execute correctly. People often have issues caused by moss that is too wet or too dry.

besgrow New Zealand Sphagnum Moss (100 Grams)

Pros: Maintains high moisture and humidity without liquid water. Lightweight and easy to shape around roots. Roots transition more easily to soil.

Cons: Can easily become too compacted. Hard to maintain consistent moisture. Can’t check on roots forming or see rot. Damaging and time consuming to remove from roots. Organic medium can introduce fungus or disease.

How to propagate a snake plant in soil or dirt

Many commercial nurseries that need to produce new plants efficiently just plant their cuttings straight into soil. This method can work, especially with a fresh, healthy cutting, but it has the most downsides out of all the methods. Make sure to use an appropriate soil mix for snake plants, not dirt from outside.

Snake Plant Imperial Houseplant Potting Soil Mix by rePotme – Mini Bag (2 Quarts)

Pros: No transplanting required. Plant can benefit from beneficial bacteria and fungi in soil.

Cons: Hard to maintain consistent moisture. Can’t check on roots forming or see rot. Soil can become anaerobic if overwatered. Organic medium can introduce fungus or disease.

How to propagate a snake plant in sand

While snake plants have succulent leaves like a cactus, I don’t recommend propagating them in sand. Sand has the same downsides as soil, although it is inorganic. In addition, sand becomes compacted extremely easily, which means no airflow to your plant and a much higher chance of rot in a waterlogged and anaerobic environment.

Propagating snake plants faster

Until your cutting grows roots, you don’t need to add nutrients to the water you use to moisten your propagation medium, because it can’t absorb them. Once roots begin to grow, you can add nutrients to help it grow faster. I use a few drops of Liqui-Dirt added to the water. This is a low strength fertilizer that won’t harm fragile baby plants or encourage algae growth in your propagating medium.

Liqui-Dirt Nano Powder All-Purpose Organic Complete Plant Food for Indoor or Outdoor Use (Makes over 50 gallons) 18 Balanced Super Foods -Balanced Blend of Vitamins Minerals Micro-Fungi and Bio-Organisms

Snake plant propagation problems

The two most common propagation problems with snake plants are dehydration and root rot. In both cases, the plant is not getting the water that it needs. If the leaves of your cutting or pup become wrinkled and limp, your first action should be to check the roots.

If your cutting doesn’t have any roots yet, it’s been too long since it had a drink. You can cut a small slice off the cutting bottom callous, and place it in water for a day or two to rehydrate. Then, place it back in the propagation medium.

If the cutting does have roots, check to make sure they are still firm and orangey white in color. Dyhydration with good roots means that the plant needs more consistent water in its medium and you should water more frequently. If the roots are black, brown, mushy, or stringy they are rotted and are not longer providing your plant any water because they are dead.

Treating root rot in snake plants

If your snake plant gets root rot, don’t panic! Cut off any stringy and mushy tissue with your shears, and then reroot it as though it were a rootless cutting using one of the methods outlined above. Using these methods you can rescue any cutting, pup, or established snake plant.

Do you have everything you need to get started with propagating your plants? Check out our recommended supplies!

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If you want to learn more about how to propagate plants (often misspelled as propogate), we recommend you follow one of our guides!

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Plant Propagation Supplies

When propagating plants, it is important to get a clean cut and have a container for your new plant. From there, plant parents should focus their attention on water levels, light, temperature, humidity, and fertilizer. To accelerate root growth, consider adding rooting hormone to your propagation supplies. Let’s get to cloning!

Best Grow Lights for Plant Propagation and Everyday Use

My search for the perfect grow light ended when I tried the GE 32W Balanced Spectrum light bulb. This is what I use for all of my variegated Monstera Albo cuttings, and they LOVE IT. It hard to find a spot in my home bright enough to keep my plants growing when it gets dark and cloudy. With these lights, I get a new leaves every month – even in the dead of winter!

GE Grow LED Light Bulb, For Seeds and Greens, Balanced Light Spectrum, Medium Base, PAR38 Bulb Shape (Pack of 1)

These GE Grow Light Bulbs frequently go on sale on Amazon, making them significantly less expensive than they would be at your nearby hardware store. Click on the above image or link for the current price.

Best Light Meter for Plant Propagation

If you want to take the guesswork out of lighting once and for all, the best thing you can do is buy a light meter. This will tell you the exact light measurement in foot candles. You can use this information to perfect the placement of every plant and grow light in your home. This the one I use. It is a great value, easy to use, and works perfectly. Click on the image or link to check the current price:

Dr.meter LX1330B Digital Illuminance Light Meter, 0-200,000 Measurement Range Lux Meter

Best Rooting Hormone Gel for Plant Propagation

Plants naturally produce this hormone, which signals to the unrooted cutting that it should grow roots. By adding rooting hormone gel, you can encourage your plants to grow roots faster when propagating.

Rooting hormone comes in powder and gel format. I use Clonex gel because it works in both wet and dry mediums. Powder is best for dry mediums (like soil and not water) because it will wash off in a liquid. Click on the image or link for the current price.

HydroDynamics Clonex Rooting Gel, 100 ml

Best Velcro Garden Ties for Plant Propagation

I prefer to use velcro garden ties when supporting my plant cuttings. The green color blends into the plant, and they are soft and wide to avoid damaging the stem. You can cut them to any length, put them on using one hand, and undo or reuse at any time. Check Amazon for the current price by clicking on the image or link.

VELCRO Brand VEL-30071-USA ONE-WRAP Garden Ties | Plant Supports for Effective Growing | Strong Grips are Reusable and Adjustable | Cut-to-Length, 50 ft x 1/2 in, Green-Recycled Plastic

Best Leca for Plant Propagation

Lightweight expanded clay aggregate (LECA) are porous clay balls. They are commonly used as solid inorganic material, which is added to water for semi-hydoponics.

The solid material provides structure for the roots to grow, and allows more airflow. The LECA balls wick water upward, allowing roots to grow in the air, above the level of pooled water. Click the image or link to check the current price on Amazon.

Mother Earth Hydroton Original Clay Pebbles – 10 Liter, Lightweight Expanded Clay Aggregate

Best Perlite for Plant Propagation

Perlite has very similar benefits to water, with the addition of greater airflow. Perlite is absorbent and porous, so it will wick moisture up to areas of the container that are not underwater. Keep the container filled with a small reservoir of water below the level of the stem, and cover the top to hold in humidity around the roots.

Perlite is so lightweight; it is easy to pull out the cutting to check on it without disturbing it too much. Heavier mediums will help the cutting stand up better, however.

Make sure you pick a course perlite (#3 or bigger to minimize dust) without fertilizer. I recommend this perlite. Click the image or link to check the current price on Amazon.

Mother Earth Perlite #3, Covers 4 cu. ft., Large and Coarse, Average Size 1/2 inch, For Hydroponic Use, Neutral pH

Best Sphagnum Moss for Plant Propagation and Air Layering

Moist moss holds a lot of water, which is great for maintaining humidity around roots while still allowing airflow. A cover, like cling wrap, can be used to hold humidity in the container.

This method can yield great results, but is difficult to execute correctly. People often have issues caused by moss that is too wet or too dry. Click on the image or link for the current price:

besgrow New Zealand Sphagnum Moss (100 Grams)

Best Fertilizer for Plant Propagation and Everyday Use

This fertilizer makes 45 gallons and can be used on most indoor plants. I use a few drops of Liqui-Dirt added to the water for my propagated plants. The packet is super concentrated and lasts a long time. Click on the image or link for the current price.

Liqui-Dirt Nano Powder All-Purpose Organic Complete Plant Food for Indoor or Outdoor Use (Makes over 50 gallons) 18 Balanced Super Foods -Balanced Blend of Vitamins Minerals Micro-Fungi and Bio-Organisms

Best Pruning Shears for Propagating Plant Cuttings

To create plant cuttings, I prefer sharp pruning shears as they make the cleanest cut. Your goal when cutting should be a smooth chop without crushing the tissue around the cut. Crushed areas often die, so a sharp tool will help you only need to cut once. Click on the image or link for the current price.

Ultra Snip 6.7 Inch Pruning Shear with Stainless Steel Blades

Best Clear Pots with Humidity Dome for Plant Propagation

Only have a handful plants you want to propagate? Want to keep cuttings separate? These clear propagation pots with a dome are perfect! Just like a larger propagation tray, these pots help you maintain consistent humidity, temperature, and light levels. Click on the image or link for the current price:

4″ Clear Plant Nursery Pots with Humidity Dome, 10PCS Plastic Gardening Pot Plant Container, Seed Starting Pot with Drain Holes for Seedlings/Vegetables/Succulents/Cuttings

Best Propagation Clone Tray & Propagator Dome

Maintaining consistent humidity, temperature, and light levels are key to success plant propagation. Look no further for the perfect cutting propagator! A propagation dome is a clear enclosure that keeps moisture in and allows your plants to absorb light. Click on the image or link for the current price.

Propagator with Humidity Vents Domes,Heavy Duty Growing Tray Mini Greenhouse for Seedlings, Clones

Best Temperature and Humidity Sensor for Plant Propagation

I recommend this hygrometer (humidity sensor) & thermometer that I use for my plants. I love the fact that it displays the highs and lows (temperature and relative humidity) of the last 24 hours, so that when I come home from work I can see what my plants experienced while I was gone! Click on the image or link for the current price.

Hygrometer Indoor Thermometer, Hygrometer Humidity Gauge Room Thermometer Digital Hygrometer Indoor Temperature Humidity Monitor High-Precision Digital Sensor (HD Large Display)

Best Mycorrhizal Fungi for Growing Roots in Soil

When you transfer your propagated plant to soil, you will likely be focused on developing a healthy system of roots. Mycorrhizal fungi has a beneficial, symbiotic relationship with plant roots to improve the uptake of micro and macro nutrients. I recommend this formula – click on the image or link for the current price:

Mycorrhizal Inoculant by DYNOMYCO™ – High Performing Strains – Concentrated Formula – Improves Nutrient Uptake – Increases Plant Yields Enhances Resilience to Stress Saves Fertilizer (100 g / 3.5 Oz)

Best Plant Heat Pad and Mat for Propagating Plants

Heat pads are used with a propagation tray or propagator dome to maintain heated temperature levels. Choose one with a thermostat, like the one I recommend below. Click the image or link to check the current price:

10″x20.75″ Seedling Heat Mat and Thermostat Controller 68-108°F Digital Thermostat Controller IP68 Waterproof (Heated mat+Thermostat Controller)

Best Plant Propagation Station and Test Tube Planter

Using test tubes allows a plant to grow its initial root system. The vertical walls (i.e. no neck) of the tube ensures that removing the plant and its new roots is easy! If you plan on growing a very large root system, stop using the lid as the root system progresses. Plus, the clear tubes allow you to monitor progress. Click on the image or link for the current price:

Desktop Plant Terrarium Propagation Station- 3 Pcs Tabletop Glass Planter Water Planting Glass Vase with Lid & Wooden Stand for Growing Hydroponic Plants Home Office Table Decoration

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